SHORTS PATTERN

Instruction :

- Measure long shorts and top of the thigh to fit your body.
- Making form of Shorts’ pattern as the same as Pants Pattern

- At the long shorts line, reduce sideline 3 cms and draw a new side line.
- Measure from gusset down to long shorts line 2.5 cms, then draw inner sideline.
- Measure long shorts sideline up 2 cms; use this line to be new long shorts line.

FIT SHORTS PATTERN

- Measure AB from front and back pattern to be equal of top of the thigh size plus 3-5 cms.
- If it’s smaller; extend 4 sidelines out until fit your measurement.
- If it’s bigger; make darts at the long shorts line of front and back pattern until fit.

FLARED SKIRT PATTERN

Instruction :
- Make form of skirt pattern, change waistline and modify skirt pattern to fit your measurement.

Front Pattern
- Draw AB line from first dart to long skirt line, cutting B to A and extend pattern’s paper 2-4 cms as your pattern’s size
- Paper is inflated at A point, fold the dart inside to be flatten.
- After flatten dart, measure 2 darts into one then divide 2 darts into equal.
- Measure bottom sideline up 2 cms

Back Pattern
- Draw CD line from dart to long skirt line, cutting from D to C, then extend pattern’s paper as the same as front pattern.
- Fold dart inside to be flatten.
- Measure bottom sideline up 2 cms, then draw new long skirt’s line

FITTED SKIRT PATTERN

Instruction:

- Make form of skirt pattern, change waistline and modify skirt pattern to fit your measurement.

- Reduce long skirt’s sideline in 2-4 cms of both front and back pattern.

Front Pattern
At Dart

To avoid stitch shrinking, draw dart’s point lean to sideline about 1 cm.

Back Pattern

At Zipper of center back, measure placket at long skirt line 15 cms long.

MODIFY PANTS PATTERN

Fit Waist Line

Measure new waist line of Front and Back without darts is equal ½ Waist.

If it’s not fit; extend or reduce of both darts until fit.

Fit Upper Hip Line

Measure the upper hip line of Front and Back without darts equal ½ of Upper Hip measurement.
If it’s bigger, reduce the upper hip side line and draw darts of Front and Back down until fit.
If it’s shorter, entend the upper hip side line and draw darts of Front and Back up until fit.

Fit Round Thigh

From U line measure both Front and Back side line up to 1.5 cms. Place with new I’ and S’ point.
Measure each side from I to I’ and S to S’ = Round Thigh + 3 cms or more.
If it’s shorter, extend leg side line until fit.

PANTS PATTERN

Measurements

-Waist
-Upper Hip
-Hip
-Long trousers (with shoes)
-Crotch = 25 cms standard
-Buttocks = 65-70 cms standard
-Long knee
-Round Thigh
-Round Ankle

Making Form of Pants Pattern

1. Waist Line = 3 cms from paper’s head
2. Upper Hip line = 10 cms from Waist line
3. Hip line = 20 cms from Waist line
4. Knee line is measured long from waist to knee
5. Long Trousers line is measured from waist to ankle or shoes

Pants FRONT Pattern

At the waist line

-Measure A to B and X to Y = (HIP ÷ 4) - 2
-Draw center line BY and side line. AX
- B to C is 1 cms and draw C to D at Hip line (CD is zipper)
- A to E = 2cms, draw arc line E to F to the hip.

At the waist line

- G = ½ CE, making dart 2 cms wide and 10 cms long to upper hip line.
- From B to H = Montant = 25 cms standard
- H is right angle, measure H to I = ¼ of front hip line, draw arc line DI.

Pants BACK Pattern

At the waist line

- Measure from J to K = T to V = (HIP ÷ 4) + 2
- Draw center back line.KV
- Measure K to L = 2.5 cms, draw center back line LM
- At J to P = 2 cms then draw back side line P to Q at the Hip line.
- Return to waistline, N is ½ PL, marking dart at N for 3 cms wide and to 12 cms long at O point.
- At K to R = Montant = 25 cms standard, draw RS ; R is a right angle.
- Measure RS = HI of Front pattern plus (+) 4 cms then draw MS line

Drawing Leg of Trousers

-At U = ½ from crotch to side; draw UU’ center line to long trousers line.

Draw inner sideline

At long trousers line

-Measure U’ to U” = U’ to U’”
FRONT = (Round Ankle of pants ÷ 4) -1
BACK = (Round Ankle of pants ÷ 4) +1
-I and S is the right angle, draw straight down as you like.
-Divide both right angles into 4 parts; drawing first part arc to U”

Draw Side Line

-Measure down 20 cms long from U point. Start sideline from Hip line pass through the point of round thigh until U”’ at the bottom.

BLOUSE PATTERN

Making Form of Blouse Pattern
1. Neckline is 10 cms from pattern paper’s head.
2. From Neckline to Waistline is equal the measurement of center front length.
3. Bustline is a half of Neckline and Waistline.
4. Shoulder section’s line is a half of Neckline and Bustline.
5. Upper Hip line is 10 cms below from Waistline.
6. Hipline is 20 cms below from Waistline.

Blouse FRONT Pattern

Neck line
- Measure A to B = (½ Neckband ÷ 3)+0.5 cms
- B is right angle; measure B to C = (AB+0.5 cms) then draw neckband line AC
- D = ½ BC , and draw straight along side of Neckline.
- CE is each pair of shoulders and F = ½ CE
- Measure F to G = (½ Bust ÷ 10)

Bust Line
- H to I = ½ Brest
- I is Bust point, measure up and down for 3 cms each.
- Measure A to I = High Brest; make ends meet of straight line G and F at I
- GF is bust’s dart. Fold the dart from FI to GI and draw CF straight to J, measure new CJ = each pair of shoulders or 12 cms standard.
- At Bust line; measure H to M = (Bust ÷ 4)+2

Shoulder Line
- Fold Bust dart, then measure K to L = ½ shoulder and draw JL line.

Hip Line
- Measure X to Y = (Hip ÷ 4)+2
- At M, measure up to N for 2 cms. Draw arc line LN
- Measure PQ = 2 cms; draw NQ and QY line.
- At I, draw straight line to I′. Make dart RS at waistline 3 cms wide and long to hipline.
- O = ½ SQ, make O dart 2 cms wide and draw down 10 cms at O′ point. The dart is long to upper hipline.


Blouse BACK Pattern

Neck line
- A is at waistline; measure A up to B = Center Back
- B to C = 1 cm and A to D = 1.5 cms. Draw CD and DX
- C to E = (½ neckband ÷ 3) + 0.5 cms
- EF = 1/3 CE then draw arc line CF

Shoulder Line
- Measure G à H = ½ shoulder + 0.5 cms
- H is right angle; measure H à I = [ (Center Back – Center Front) ÷ 2 ] + 7 cms.
- Draw FI line, if FI is equal or larger than each pair of shoulders
- If FI is shorter, extend II′ to the right side until FI is equalled pair of shoulders then draw I′H, equal F to I or I′ = ½ each pair of shoulders

Bust Line
- Measure J to K = (Bust ÷ 4) – 2

Hip Line
- Measure X to Y = (Hip ÷ 4)-2
- KY to KL = 2 cms, draw arc line HL
- Measure MN = 2 cms, draw LN and NY
- D to P = 1/3 DN
- P to Q = 3 cms
- X to T = AP + 1 cm
- Draw PT and QT and PO meet at shoulder line
- On PO line, S is in between shoulder and bust line.
- Draw SQ and SQ′

CULOTTE PATTERN

Add Measurement
Enfourchure = 65-70 cms standard
Montant = 25 cms

Making Culotte Pattern
At first, make form of skirt pattern and extend montant = 25 cms as you see in the picture.
>>click image to enlarge<<

Culotte FRONT Pattern
Measure A to B = 25 cms = Montant
O = ½ AB then draw BC line and B is a right angle.
Measure BC = ⅓ of Front Hip line and DE = BC + 1 cm
Draw arc line OC and CE.

Culotte BACK Pattern
At zipper, entend bottom long skirt line to P = 1 cms
Measure F to G = 25 cms (montant)
FI = ⅓ FG; then draw GH line and G is a right angle.
Measure GH = ⅓ of Back Hip line.
Draw arc line IH = PQ = GH + 1 cm then draw HG line.

Fit Culotte Pattern
Measure AOC + FIH = Measurement + 10 cms
If it's shortter, measure OC and IH down until fit.
After that modify culotte pattern as the same as skirt pattern

MODIFY SKIRT PATTERN

Change the waistline



Skirt Front Pattern

Change the waist line after making form of skirt pattern by

A) Normal shape

• Measure A point down to 1.5 cms then draw new arc line from A to C

B) Large shape

• Measure A point down around 0.5 to 1 cms which depends on your belly shape then draw new arc line from A to C

Skirt Back Pattern

• For any shape, change the waist line by measured K point down to 1.5 cms then draw new arc line to M

Fit Waistline

Skirt Front Pattern

• Measure the new waist line without darts is equal (WAIST ÷ 4) + 2
• If it’s longer, extents both dart until fitting your waist.
• If it’s shorter, reduces both darts to fit your waist.

Skirt Back Pattern

• Measure the new waist line without darts equal (WAIST ÷ 4) - 2
• If it’s bigger or shorter; modify back pattern as the front

Fit upper hip line

• Measure the upper hip line of Front and Back without darts equal ½ of Upper Hip.
• If it’s bigger, reduce the upper hip side line until fit your measurement or draw long dart of Front and Back down until fit.
• If it’s shorter, extent the upper hip side line until fit your measurement or draw long dart of Front and Back up until fit.
  

Note:

• Small waist : dart is very large. If each front dart is wider than 2.5 cms and the back one is wider than 3 cms; reduce 1 cm of the waist side line and 0.5 cm of each dart. For Back pattern have modified it as the same as the Front.
• Larger waist : dart is very small. At Front pattern if each dart is smaller than 1 cm, sum up two darts into one and draw it at the center.

SKIRT PATTERN

Making Form of Skirt Pattern

1. Waistline is 3 cms. from the header of pattern paper.
2. Upper Hip line is 10 cms from waist line.
3. Hip line is 20 cms from waistline.
4. Measure long skirt from waistline to the bottom line as you like for your measurement


Skirt FRONT Pattern

At the waistline measure

• A to B and X to Y = (HIP ÷ 4) + 2
• Draw side line BY and fold line. AX
• B to C is 2 cms and draw arc line from C to D

At the waistline; draw 1^st dart.

• A to E = 7.5 cms
• E to F = 2 cms
• Find the center and draw EF dart to Upper Hip line
  

Draw 2^nd Dart

• F to I = 4 cms
• I to J = 2 cms
• Draw IJ dart 10 cms long to Upper Hip line.

Skirt BACK Pattern

At the waistline measure

• K to L and T to V = (HIP ÷ 4) – 2
• Draw LV line.

Sideline measure

• T to M = 2 cms and draw arc line M to N at the Hip line

At the Zipper

• Measure from K to P = 1.5 cms then draw zipper line P to Q at Hip.
• Back pattern has only one dart which measure from P to R = 6.5 cms
  
• R to S = 3 cms then draw RS dart to O point for 12 cms long
  

Begin with the most important step...

MEASURE YOUR BODY
Only basic body measurements are needed to determine your pattern type and size. Remember to wear proper undergarments and shoes when measuring. Also, make sure the tape measure is held snugly and firmly (not tightly) against your body and is always parallel to the floor for circumference measurements.

For Misses’ and Misses’ Petite:
BUST- Measure around the fullest part of bust and straight across back (1)
CHEST- around body above fullest part of bust (2)
Waist- around body at natural waistline (3)
HIP- around body at fullest part—usually 7-9" (18-23cm) below waist (4)
BACK WAIST LENGTH - from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline (5)
HEIGHT- measure (without shoes) standing against a wall

Tips : I advice you to measure by centimeters.