December 14, 2007

PANTS PATTERN

Measurements

-Waist
-Upper Hip
-Hip
-Long trousers (with shoes)
-Crotch = 25 cms standard
-Buttocks = 65-70 cms standard
-Long knee
-Round Thigh
-Round Ankle

Making Form of Pants Pattern

1. Waist Line = 3 cms from paper’s head
2. Upper Hip line = 10 cms from Waist line
3. Hip line = 20 cms from Waist line
4. Knee line is measured long from waist to knee
5. Long Trousers line is measured from waist to ankle or shoes

Pants FRONT Pattern

At the waist line

-Measure A to B and X to Y = (HIP ÷ 4) - 2
-Draw center line BY and side line. AX
- B to C is 1 cms and draw C to D at Hip line (CD is zipper)
- A to E = 2cms, draw arc line E to F to the hip.


At the waist line

- G = ½ CE, making dart 2 cms wide and 10 cms long to upper hip line.
- From B to H = Montant = 25 cms standard
- H is right angle, measure H to I = ¼ of front hip line, draw arc line DI.

Pants BACK Pattern

At the waist line

- Measure from J to K = T to V = (HIP ÷ 4) + 2
- Draw center back line.KV
- Measure K to L = 2.5 cms, draw center back line LM
- At J to P = 2 cms then draw back side line P to Q at the Hip line.
- Return to waistline, N is ½ PL, marking dart at N for 3 cms wide and to 12 cms long at O point.
- At K to R = Montant = 25 cms standard, draw RS ; R is a right angle.
- Measure RS = HI of Front pattern plus (+) 4 cms then draw MS line


Drawing Leg of Trousers

-At U = ½ from crotch to side; draw UU’ center line to long trousers line.

Draw inner sideline

At long trousers line

-Measure U’ to U” = U’ to U’”
FRONT = (Round Ankle of pants ÷ 4) -1
BACK = (Round Ankle of pants ÷ 4) +1
-I and S is the right angle, draw straight down as you like.
-Divide both right angles into 4 parts; drawing first part arc to U”

Draw Side Line

-Measure down 20 cms long from U point. Start sideline from Hip line pass through the point of round thigh until U”’ at the bottom.